The White City

“Nancy?” She had short red hair and a tall black boots….must be Jodie! Jodie is Dad’s friend from his La Ronge days, and she lives in Casablanca where she teaches English. Jodie met us when we got off the train from Fes and organized all six of us into a grande taxi (amazing, and even legal!) and took us to the Ibis hotel. One of her students, Salah, just happens to be the general manager for Ibis hotels in Morocco, and, as a favor to her, he gave us good rooms at a great price. That was just the beginning of seeing Casablanca through Jodie’s eyes.

The next stop was “Rick’s Café” which is actually in the middle of the city, not at the airport. It’s not from the 1940’s either, but it is decorated and dedicated to look like the café in the movie Casablanca. If (like me) you haven’t actually seen the movie it plays there continuously, so you can fill that gap in your cultural education. Over a glass of scotch Jodie warned us that she is a “control freak” (a term she is trying to explain to her students) and that if we didn’t want to follow her agenda we should let her know. I told her that I’m a control freak too, but even control freaks can get tired of organizing five people when traveling, and I’d be delighted to follow in her wake for a few days. So we did.

The next morning it was brunch at Chez Paul with Terri (the principal of an English school) and Heather (a missionary who has adopted two Moroccan boys). We heard some of their stories, then it was over to Jodie’s apartment to see her neighborhood. While we were in Casa (as the locals say) we travelled in petit taxis. Jodie would run into the street and wave her arm to flag one over while we gazed in different directions and tried to look inconspicuous. The drivers don’t like big groups. Nelson, John and I would jump into the first taxi, with directions to our destination from Jodie to the driver. Then she would flag another cab for the parents and herself. We ended the day at the Churchill Club where Jodie introduced us to “the judge”, another of her students. We had a very interesting conversation with him about the Moroccan justice system (no jury, five judges…death penalty for some crimes, but it has not been applied in many years).

Day two in Casablanca and another round of adventures with Jodie. First thing she took Mum and I into the market. We went into a shop selling knock off purses, etc. Jodie greeted the men who were sitting around and then asked to see “the really good stuff”, so they took us into the back room! That’s where the copies of Italian designer bags and shoes and are so good that you really can’t tell the difference from the real thing. “What makes them so much better?” I asked. “They’re made in Italy.” said Jodie. Next it was into a watch shop where, once again, Jodie told the man behind the counter to show us “the really good stuff”. He pulled a metal case from under the counter and showed us the Rolex and Longines and other famous brands I’ve never heard of but must have status somewhere. It was fun, but we did not give in to temptation.

We got a taste of real life Morocco at the café across the street from Jodie’s apartment. She calls it “the worker’s café” because it’s the place where the locals eat, and she takes all her guests there. Sardine balls in sauce, beans, bread. No cutlery and eat with your right hand only, please! That’s a challenge for a leftie like me, but when the food is good the awkwardness can be overcome. After lunch Nelson and the boys stayed at Jodie’s apartment where Nelson did some set-up work on Jodie’s computer, but Mum and I got another glimpse of real life Morocco at the hamam. Mum went for the soak and scrub while I got my toenails and fingernails done. After that experience Jodie presented us each with a silver ring. She’s helping a friend organize an internet export business for jewelry from his village, and we are wearing beautiful samples. Thank you Jodie!

Next stop was tea with Jodie’s friend and student Waffa and her mother Naima. It was a formal tea, in a beautiful Moroccan house. We felt really privileged to have met the family and to be treated to such a warm welcome. The final event of the day was another stop at the Churchill Club to meet three more of the English students, two young women who do financial work and a young man who has just qualified as a doctor. We asked them all kinds of questions about life in Morocco, and had great fun hearing their stories.