Make way for donkeys

Gas Delivery in the Medina

“Is that really a goat’s head?….What’s argan oil?…Did you see the donkey carrying all those bottles of gas?…Whoa, that soup smells good!…Look at all those oranges…” This is the kind of conversation you would have heard if you had been with us in the first few minutes we were on the street on our first morning in Fez.

Dar Imam courtyard

Dar Imam, outside sign

We arrived at about 8 at night, and were whisked to Dar Imam by Nordin in his “grande taxi” A grande taxi is really an old Mercedes designed to seat four passengers and a driver. (There is also a petit taxi, which is a little Fiat that seats three) It was a tight squeeze with all five of us and our luggage. No worries, we made it to the parking lot outside the walls of the medina where we were met by a crowd of young men and boys with carts, anxious to make a few dirams by hauling our luggage to our house. Once got there and finished oohing and aahing over the decoration and traditional layout we asked if there was a restaurant nearby where we could have supper. We were guided to a very, very expensive place with live music provided by two men playing traditional instruments. It cost us a week’s food budget for one night, but it was a good introduction to Moroccan food.

The next morning we went off with Kalil, who guided us through the medina and showed us the most important sights: the Blue Gate, the mosque (which we could not go into), the oldest Muslim school (which we could go into), a traditional bakery, the entrance to the baths, and any number of fountains. To Nelson’s despair the tour also included stops at a metal work shop (very nice brass plates, must have one for display in Creston), a traditional pharmacy (now I know what argan oil is) and the leather tannery. The tannery was fascinating because they are still tanning and dying leather there as they have for hundreds of years. Of course is also good selection of finished leather good for sale, and we did our duty to ensure that Kallil got a good commission for taking us there by purchasing, between us all: two leather jackets and one purse and one pair of shoes. Where else could we get a camel leather jacket? Can you guess who got the jackets?

Working in the tannery

A delivery in the medina....in front of the fountain.

Brass plates for sale.....

Moroccan food is very, very good and when we get home Nelson and John and Mum and I will be able to cook you aubergine salad, typical soup, vegetable tagine and chocolate cookie dessert. That is because we spent the day with Suaad, a chef at the Clock Café. She took us shopping in the market (yes, those are really donkey heads for sale) and then taught us how to put it all together into a great lunch. We did not chose to cook the donkey heads. Our soup was made with beef, chick peas and tomatoes.

Cooking class

Olives for sale

On our last day in Fez we hired Nordin and his grande taxi to take us to see the Roman ruins at Volubilis and the Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss (which we could not go into) and the town of Mknez. It was a great day of exploring and seeing the varied countryside of Morocco. We managed to fit four in the back seat and Dad in the front. We were not comfortable but it worked. Poor Nordin got pulled over by the police. We thought he was in trouble for having five passengers in a car that is designed for four, but the problem turned out to be the Barcelona Football Club sticker he had put on his front license plate!

G'Dad in the Roman Ruins